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Review: Equinox Restaurant Introduces New Chef

New chef Lee Bennett brings food back to the good old-fashioned basics
Award-winning chef Lee Bennett is Equinox Restaurant's latest star, bringing with him a menu brilliantly-executed with his "back to basics" cooking philosophy.
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21 Feb, 2012

Equinox Restaurant needs no introduction. The lavishly-designed modern European restaurant has always been a bright spot in the night sky, perched 70 levels off the ground at Swissotel the Stamford and a favourite for canoondling couples with a taste for sky-high dining. Admittedly, it's always been overshadowed by its fancier cousin, Jaan, but Equinox Restaurant now has a secret weapon up its sleeves.

Sky-high dining seems to be a favourite amongst Singaporeans. Check out our picks for the restaurants with the best views in Singapore.

Don't judge new executive chef Lee Bennett based on his age -- the young chef was the youngest ever winner of the prestigious "Restaurant Chef of the Year" award.

Who is it: Meet new executive chef Lee Bennett. The fresh-faced 31-year-old may be young, but with ex-mentors such as Gordon Ramsay and Jason Atherton, and the award of "Restaurant Chef of the Year" by the prestigious Craft Guild of Chefs -- also the youngest winner ever -- under his belt, age is just a number. Chef Bennett's "back to basics" cooking philosophy is straightforward: much emphasis is placed on the quality of produce, and he works his magic layering the flavours, whilst respecting traditional recipes.

Must-try: The classic lobster bisque with fennel, dill and linguine is chef Bennett's self-proclaimed signature, and it duly delivers. Served piping hot from a tureen, the hearty, briny bisque is infused with all the wonderful essence of seafood and comes accompanied by generous amounts of luxurious lobster slices and linguine ribbons. It's a no-frills fuss-free dish, and yet, the simple dish was quite possibly one of the highlights of the meal. Great to the very last drop, and testimonial of the chef's cooking philosophy.

The lobster bisque with fennel, dill and linguine is simply-done, but is one of the highlights of the meal.

The jaw-droppingly massive Angus rib of beef with Dauphinoise potato, sauteed green beans with wild mushrooms and pepper sauce serves two -- probably sufficient for three with small appetites -- and lives up to the inevitably high expectations conferred upon itself just based on appearances alone. The prettily-pink meat, as you would expect, is juicy with just the right amounts of tender and chewy, while the mix of sauteed green beans and wild mushrooms add a subtle Asian touch to an otherwise all-Western, all-robust dish. Do remember to pace yourself though -- we're not kidding about it being massive.

The 200-day grain-fed Angus rib of beef tastes as impressive as it looks.


Don't expect many surprises however, in the dessert menu. Singaporeans, apparently, are not the most adventurous when it comes to ordering desserts, and according to chef Bennett, would favour the familiar over bombastic new creations. The creme brulee in particular, is one of Equinox's best-sellers, but we're wiliing to wager that it is so because of other reasons. Every spoonful of this delightful dessert rewards with a mouthful of crunchy burnt caramel and silky custard that goes down like a dream. Definitely one of the best we've ever had.

Also check out:
City Space's new cocktail creations by cocktail architect Richard Gillam. The new menu encompasses apertifs, digestifs, as well as your usual array of sweet creations.

Verdict:
Ingredients and techniques are straightforward but chef Bennett's skillful execution and inherent understanding of flavours and textures shines through clearly for dishes that are comforting, with the occasional surprise.


Equinox, Level 70, Swissotel the Stamford, 2 Stamford Road, +65 6837 3322, reservations@equinoxcomplex.com
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